How To Do Paris With A Baby

Paris with kids, Paris with a baby, Paris with a Toddler

Jordan in Place des Vosges, 2012

The number one question I received after "How was Paris?" is "How was it with a baby?"

In a word: awesome.

Experiencing Paris with a 1-year old allowed us to discover a side of the city we didn't know existed: the gorgeous parks, the famous carousels and the Parisians whose warmth touched our family.

We had taken Jordan to California twice and Cabo San Lucas, both relatively easy flights on which she did quite well. The challenge of taking her across the pond was a big one and one we considered not doing. Since my days are full with so many commitments at work, I wanted to spend all my time with her, something I rarely get to do. Perhaps it's because I'm a relatively new mother but I'm still cherishing every moment with her. Many mothers tell me they can't wait to get out of town and away from their kids. I'm sure that time will come but it hasn't hit me...yet.

I also believe in parents living their lives. Want to go to Paris? Do it. It's a healthy selfishness I sense too many parents relinquish once they have kids. The thing is, it usually works out for the kiddos in giving them a worldliness or experiences they wouldn't otherwise have.

Parc Monceau Carousel, Paris with Kids Blog

Jordan riding the carousel at Parc Monceau

Getting to Paris was easy. We love to travel with Air France. We booked business class tickets from DFW to Paris' Charles de Gaulle airport. Don't judge. I spend money on jewelry and travel. This was an investment, admittedly probably not the most financially smart one, but one that was worth it while traveling with a toddler. We got through security quickly, had lounge access at every airport and an incredibly easy experience at check-in. We connected in Atlanta which gave us the chance to break up the flight. She slept like, well, a baby on the flight to Europe. Not one issue, only one diaper change and we were pretty fresh when we landed.

Coming back to the states was a different story. Any time you travel from Europe to the west, you travel into the sun, totally messing with your sleep patterns. We had "the" screaming baby on the plane for a solid hour. We had with us ear drops, Benadryl and plenty of Poilâne bread to satiate her. Doing so took time. We finally got Jordan to sleep and she was okay the majority of the flight.

Flying with her at this age is almost ideal because lap infants under two years of age are typically free of charge on domestic flights and cost 10% of our ticket price on international ones. Yes.

Under two years of age, kids fly free as lap infants on domestic flights and at significantly reduced rates on international flights. (Rules cary by carrier)

Air France was wonderful. The flight attendants heated up French baby foods for Jordan, which she didn't really eat. She is fully into whole food and snacked on our meals and the snacks we brought on the plane with us.

Paris with a baby, Paris with kids, Paris with baby blog

Asleep on the return flight....finally

There were some challenges but the fun we had far outweighed them and success overseas with a 13-month old boiled down to a few key things:

Having a good, quality breakfast
Attempt the language
Using a sturdy yet compact umbrella stroller that allowed her to sleep while we walked
Patience, flexibility and a smile when she threw the inevitable tantrum in a restaurant or on the plane

The Breakfast
We cashed in my Marriott points and simply stayed at the Marriott Champs Elysee. Not my first choice but the price was right and the location excellent. By far the hotel's biggest asset was its morning breakfast buffet which we ate every day. Keeping the little one happy during a full day of exploring started with her having a good breakfast. I learned early on that a full baby is a happy baby and the hotel's breakfast offering was outstanding: fruit, yogurt, eggs, all staples of our daily diet. This was perfect for getting our day going, along with their pain au chocolat and copious amounts of coffee. The staff was gracious and incredibly accommodating, sitting us at a rare spacious four-top table in a corner. When Jordan would scream, at least we were somewhat distant from the other guests.

It didn't matter how late we woke up, which was usually around 10am, we made time to get in that first meal.

Food the Rest of the Day
Throughout the day, meals were important but none moreso than breakfast. Jordan typically gets four meals a day at 8am, noon and 8pm with a 4pm snack. Obviously our schedules were off and we only ate three meals a day but she was fine. We ate like royalty in restaurants but that was a challenge.

Except for the George V hotel, not a single spot had a high chair so she had to sit in our lap or next to us. Anyone who has been to Paris knows how tightly packed the tables are and how leisurely the pace of service is. The key to keeping her agreeable was getting bread on the table as quickly as possible. The restaurants were all accommodating and one, L'Epigramme, even delivered a special dish for Jordan of whipped potatoes with mustard which was divine.

Lunch in Paris with Kids, Paris for families

Lunch at the Jardin du Forum des Halles

Jordan ate everything we did. Everything except oysters. She consumed omelets, crepes, fish, chicken, vegetables, those whipped potatoes, La Duree macarons (TIP: sit in the bar at the Champs Élyéese location to avoid the crowded tea room), savory tarts and bread by the pound.

We bought bread from famed bakery Poilâne to give to Jordan when we got to a restaurant. This is not something we do at home but because the pace of service in France is so much slower than what we experience in the states, it became a food form of a pacifier. This is not a practice I endorse but considering we were in the minority bringing a baby to nice dining establishments, I didn't want to be that ugly American parent with the screaming kid.

The practice has stopped since we have returned home and we are focused on patience and manners at meal time.

Attempt the Language
This is something you should do any time you travel to a foreign country but particularly with a kid. Yes, I took four years of French in school but I have forgotten most of it. I refreshed my memory listening Pimsleur's French 1 while walking our dog along with Jordan. This was perfect.

The customary greetings in a foreign language (in this case Bonjour, bonsoir, merci, s'il vous plait) go a long way. Add in things like I would like (Je voudrais), where is (Ou est) and you're in really good shape. Locals in any country appreciate an attempt at their language. I had a full conversation with a cab driver in which I understood about one out of every 20 words. I continued to say "Je comprends, oui" (I understand, yes) every phrase or so and he kissed Jordan and me goodbye.

Strollers in Paris, Paris with kids itinerary

Paris, in the rain, under the rain cover

The Stroller
In preparation for the trip, we bought an umbrella stroller. I currently use a Bob Revolution (LOVE!) to walk or run with her and the dog. When we're running errands, we use the Orbit Baby system (double LOVE). Both too bulky to take with us traipsing cobblestone Parisian streets. The last thing I wanted to buy was another stroller but the Joovy Groove Umbrella stroller we purchased was perfect. It was compact yet sturdy. We could compress it quickly getting on and off the Metro or into cabs and restaurants. The key was that it reclines to a decently flat position which allowed Jordan to sleep while we walked.

Getting Around
Exploring the city was easy. Paris was made for walking. It rained twice while we were there, forcing us to use our rain cover which worked well. Jordan was fine. We dressed her in layers and used a variety of hats, berets, gloves, sweaters and blankets to keep her warm. She has returned home happy and healthy.

A sleepy baby

We used the Metro twice and cabs twice. The stroller was our best accessory. It worked on uneven cobblestone streets in Montmarte and the wooden bridge near the Louvre. It allowed us to carry some extra things like her blanket or small umbrella in the carrying compartment below the seat. A few restaurants had no room in the dining area for a stroller so the owners would put it in the back for us.

We love City Walks With Kids: Paris Adventures on Foot. You can take a card or two out of the deck and use it as a map to help guide throughout the day.

Patience, Flexibility and a Smile
These three things were key. Our pace was much slower than any other time we've ever toured Europe. We let her dictate our course of the day. And we can wholeheartedly attest that a genuine smile transcends any language barrier.

Patience
This is important on any trip to a foreign but especially with a baby. Everything we did was a bit slower: getting out the door, touring the city, visiting museum exhibits, dining and more. We were rarely in a rush. If we missed out on something, fine. This was a new-mom experience for me in my constantly time-crunched life. It was almost luxurious to travel and experience Paris on slower pace.

Flexibility
This is my new key word. We really had to monitor Jordan's temperament. As a 13-month old, she can't sit in a stroller all day. If we noted she was getting antsy, we would stop at one of the wonderful parks all over the city and let her burn off some energy for an hour. These turned out to be the best experiences of the trip. At Park Monceau, she had her first carousel ride. At the Trocadero, she met 3-month old Anastasia and 2-year old Avi. At Parc du Forum des Halles she and little Maxus had an impromptu play date. All wonderful memories we never would have experienced had she not been with us.

At the Trocadero with Anastasia

Those park pit stops, which included changing her diaper on a bench on one occasion, prevented us from hitting an arondissement we wanted to visit or market which we had hoped to browse but they made the trip that much more memorable.

But it wasn't all about her. We ran into a couple from Austin at the fabulous Pavillon de la Reine hotel in the Marais and joined them for a memorable dinner at Le Bar a Huitres with Jordan who enjoyed every minute of it. We were still hungry following our afternoon tea at the George V (which included Sylvester Stallone and Middle Eastern royalty) and stopped for a nightcap and cheese plate at the FABULOUS Pershing Hall hotel in the former American Legion. Jordan slept on a banquette while we ended our evening. It was another unplanned pitstop which we needed.

Pershing Hall

A Simple Smile
The power of a smile is universal and it resonates with the French. I think many Parisians get an unfair rap as being unfriendly and cold. They are formal and polite and expect the same in return. I blogged about this a few years ago and it continues to hold true. A smile went a long way when Jordan was screaming in the bistro next to the table of lovers seemingly on an illicit lunch tryst. Seriously, baseball is alive and well in Paris as they made it all the way to third base over lunch.

No matter where we went, no matter how tired we were or pissy I was, we made the effort to be extremely polite and we were greeted with the same patience and flexibility we put forth. Jordan's smile worked the best, though. Chefs, shop owners, maitre d's, hotel doormen and valets all warmed to her, and ultimately us, because she put on the charm.

Would I go back with Jordan again? In a heartbeat. It wasn't necessarily easy but it was a trip that while she may not remember it's one we certainly will cherish the rest of our lives.

UPDATE: we have been back every year since! Stay tuned for more "Paris with kids" posts. Have a question? Email us.

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